Ölbeat 015: De Molen Amarillo

Brewery: Brouwerij de Molen
Country: Netherlands
Style: Imperial IPA
Abv: 9,2 %
@RateBeer (named Storm & Bliksem)

Is this the way to Amarillo...?

Amarillo is described by the brewery to be "brewed according to the new American tradional Imperial or Double IPA's". Since my previous experiences with De Molen are from "the dark side" of the beers - i.e. strong stouts - I was very eager to know how they handle another of my favourite beer styles.

What about the beer?
Colour is semi-clear orange with medium natural white head. Aroma has a strong scent of sweet fruit and berry - orange, mango, pineapple and strawberry are present. Taste gives first pine and sweet fruit - mango or peach. Slowly the sweet bitterness of Amarillo hops and sourness of grapefruit break through. Aftertaste is bitter, dry and a little warm-alcoholic.

The beer is so smooth, soft and good-tasting that it's difficult to take small sips and enjoy slowly. If beer can taste like being on a first date with a girl whom you'd like to take home from the first eye contact, this is the beer. Very difficult to have small-talk with this one.

Ölbeat

Though I associate the beer with first date, you're not getting a Blink-182 or a Danko Jones song here - maybe later. Instead I give in for the smoothness of the beer:

Santana ft. Rob Thomas: Smooth (YouTube)

From the 1998 album, Supernatural, the lead single was composed by songwriter Itaal Shur over one weekeng. Matchbox Twenty singer Rob Thomas wrote the lyrics and, after sending the demo to Santana, was asked to sing the album version. The result was an instant success, the song of the year and the first Billboard Number One on Santana's long career. The song is labeled with Carlos Santana's "samba-like" guitar riffs and Thomas' intense and gruff vocals - it was never meant to be a dance track although the result is very dancable. Thomas wrote the lyrics for his wife - about a Latin woman through white man's eyes, like Carlos Santana has put it. Amarillo is probably as close to smooth lady as a beer can be, so there we have it. 

Brewer's Choice

Gerry Rafferty: Baker Street (YouTube)

From the 1978 album, City to City, the lead single was written by Gerry Rafferty. The song became Rafferty's career's most popular song. It was written during a period where Rafferty was having legal problems because of his previous band, Stealer Wheel's breakup. Living in Scotland, he stayed many times in his friend's flat on Baker Street in London. The song's lyrics are about a person, who seems to dream about happiness and having a better life, but spends his time living unhappy from day to day and meeting a friend who is also a dreamer. The saxophone riff between the verses was played by Raphael Ravenscroft, and it's been mentioned as most notable saxophone riff in a song. Despite this, Ravenscroft didn't like the result and thought that the riff was flat and out of tune.

Ölbeat 014: De Molen Spanning & Sensatie

Brewery: Brouwerij de Molen
Country: Netherlands
Style: Imperial Stout
Abv: 9,8 %
@RateBeer

Sensational thrills with salt, chili and cocoa

"Spanning & Sensatie was intended to thrill your taste buds", says the description on the brewery's beerography. The thrills are given by adding cocoa, chili and sea salt to a strong Imperial Stout that already has oat malts in the mix. Some tricks are allowed, as long as the result is recognisably beer.

What about the beer?
Colour is almost-black-dark brown with quickly vanishing tiny bubbly head. Aroma has soft scent of milk chocolate with tiny hint of coffee. Taste is roasted medium sweet malts with black coffee, a salty twist and a chili note on the tongue. Finish has malty sweetness, as does the aftertaste.

This is a full-flavoured experience: nothing goes over the top or even close in any sense, but there are surprising twists in the taste when the liquid spreads around the mouth. In the end one has gone through a delicate, balanced trip of senses. Expectations exceeded.

Ölbeat

When it comes to the artist, the choice was clear from the beginning: this Finnish rock band can open mysteries and give thrills. Selecting the song was harder, but I picked this ballad:

Sonata Arctica: Shamandalie (YouTube)

From the 2004 album Reckoning Night, the song was written by the band's vocalist Tony Kakko. It's a metal ballad about an older man who is reminiscing his childhood friendship. He probably wanted it to be his first love but the song's title girl, Shamandalie, didn't respond his feelings and also the friendship ended. The ballad starts with vocalist Kakko singing the 1st verse, chorus and 2nd verse with only piano and acoustic guitar on the background. From the 2nd chorus the song turns into a pure rock ballad with the whole band and Kakko's rougher singing. I've always found Sonata Arctica an interesting Finnish band, and this song with aching memories showed both the soft and the rough side of them.

Brewer's Choice

Audioslave: Cochise (YouTube)

From the 2002 album Audioslave, the song was the first single of the rock supergroup formed by ex-Soundgarden singer Chris Cornell and Rage against the Machine ex-members guitarist Tom Morello, bassist Tim Commerford and drummer Brad Wilk. It got its name and background from the last great American Indian chief to die free and unconquered. The lyrics written by Cornell, however, are about something else than a chief: they are someone's message to oneself about stop wasting one's life and save oneself. The intro guitar riff by Morello was created by accident: he rapidly and unintentionally hit the string with a pencil while jamming and writing notes. The result was after a slight moderation the "helicopter sound" in the beginning of the song.

Ölbeat 013: De Molen Rook & Vuur (Smoke & Fire)

Brewery: Brouwerij de Molen
Country: the Netherlands
Style: Smoked Stout
Abv: 8,2 %
@RateBeer

If there's smoke, there can be fire...

The brewery describes Rook & Vuur as "a subtle balance between smoke, chocolate and chili peppers". The beer is made with whiskey and roasted barley malts and Czech Sladek hops. Combining strong stout body with smoky whiskey taste and hot spiciness of chili was something that caught my eye. I just had to have a taste.

What about the beer?
Colour is dark brown to black with a tiny vanishing head. Aroma gently mixes intense smoke, roasted malts and black dark-blend coffee. Taste starts with peaty smoked and roasted malts. Gentle chili and spice flavor hits the tongue. Palate adds smooth bitterness. Aftertaste is long, smoky and bitter. This is pretty thick stuff, but every sip makes you wait for the next.

Being a friend of thick stouts, smoky Islay whisky and spicy food this one does the trick. Very rich and complex beer for "an hour and some", if one can resist the smoothness. Every piece fits the puzzle.

Ölbeat

With the beer with smoke, fire and fierce attitude, you have to have an aggressive rock song. When a heavy metal band of 2000's gets some additional aggression from the singer of the legendary Judas Priest, you ought to have it. 

Five Finger Death Punch ft. Rob Halford: Lift Me Up (YouTube)

From the 2013 album The Wrong Side of Heaven and the Righteous Side of Hell, Volume 1, the opening track starts with heavy guitar-bass-drum intro. The band's vocalist Ivan L. Moody sings the first verse and chorus, and guest singer Rob Halford takes the lead on the second verse. Moody has stated that the song's intent is to inspire: the lyrics are about overcoming obstacles and less-than-perfect circumstances in life, that many people are born with. Like the song is about getting lifted up from the flames and the ashes, Rook & Vuur is high above just smoke and fire.

Brewer's Choice

Red Hot Chili Peppers: Give It Away (YouTube)

From the 1991 album Blood Sugar Sex Magik, the track is the lead single and commercially one of the band's most successful songs. It's trademarked with guitarist John Frusciante's and bassist Flea's seamless riffing and prominent bassline. Singer Anthony Kiedis first came up with the chorus "Give it away, give it away, give it away now", since the phrase was something that he wanted in a song of the upcoming album. The song's lyrics - mostly random phrases with no or loose connections - circle around the ideas of selflessness and altruism - something that Kiedis had learned from German punk rock singer Nina Hagen.

Ölmönger Special: Interview with Brouwerij de Molen

Bodegraven, an about 20 thousand inhabitants' town near the Haag in the Netherlands, is the home of one of the best breweries in the world. Originally situated completely in the town's landmark, the windmill De Arkduif (meaning 'ark dove', from the story of Noah's ark), Brouwerij de Molen - translation: the Mill Brewery - has today the head brewery down the street. The mill is still in used as a brewery for small batches.

© Brouwerij de Molen

Brouwerij de Molen was founded in 2004. During the first 11-12 operative years the brewery and its beers have been awarded uncountable times - e.g. as Ratebeer's best brewery in the Netherlands since 2008. The brewery is known for curious and experimental view on beer: the barrel-aged versions of different brands are known around the world. Probably the most known De Molen beer, Hel en Verdoemenis (Hell & Damnation), has had at least 18 different barrel-aged or spiced versions, many of them still in production. Mindblowing craftbeer is truly made there - according to the motto on the brewery's website.

© Brouwerij de Molen

I asked people from Brouwerij de Molen to answer some questions about the brewery, brewing and beer by e-mail. I got the brewery's co-owner John Brus to the other end of the line and luckily, he was more than ready to answer and provide me with some pictures from the brewery. Without any more hesitation and delay let's go to the interview.  

* * *

Hello, John. Tell us about yourself. What's the story behind you? How and why did you become a professional brewer?

I'm John Brus, co-owner of Brouwerij de Molen in the Netherlands. I studied computer science and worked in that field for a long time.

Since the age of 15 - 16 I've been very much interested in beer and brewing. Starting with the first beer I ever drank I saved the bottle, and the next bottle turned out to be a different beer. It immediately caught my interest and I continued searching for new beers and flavours. Saving the bottles until my mom forced me to through away the 300 - 400 bottles/cans stacked in my room. From the age of 17 I started brewing beer at home together with a couple of friends. After I finished my study, I got a job, married and children and stopped homebrewing. Too much fun things to do and too little time.

In 2006 I became friends with Menno Olivier who founded Brouwerij de Molen in 2004. Our mutual interest in craft-beer and brewing in general draw us together. After a while we started talking about letting the brewery grow from just a brewpub with export sales to a grown-up brewery. In 2009 we organized the first Borefts Beer Festival together and in 2010 I actually started working in the brewery. Very eager to do professionally what I've always been doing as an amateur. Never regretted it for one minute.

What are the best things about being a brewer? Are there any unpleasant sides?

The best thing as a brewer for me is that I can do what I always wanted to do. I know when but I don't know why the 'virus' got me, but beer is my life.

I breathe beer, I talk beer, I wake up and go to bed with it.

For a craft-brewer there’s a big extra advantage: you get to travel a lot and meet wonderful people. Those are number 2 and 3 on my list of best things to do.

Being a craft-brewer has one unpleasant side. We love experimenting and people actually expect this from us. But experimenting means making mistakes - or better said: some flavours don't turn out 100% as you expected them or most people aren't ready for it yet. As a brewer and perfectionist I always want it to be... well perfect. But you can't please everyone.

© Brouwerij de Molen

Brouwerij de Molen was founded in 2004 by your partner Menno Olivier. You joined him in 2009. After that the brewery has moved to a new and bigger facility and received international recognition and worldwide success.  What makes Brouwerij de Molen different from other breweries in Netherlands, Europe and the world?

In the Netherlands we were - and still are - the pioneer for brewing craftbeers. The definition of craftbeer for me is making progressive beers, experimenting, trying new brewing methods and ingredients, brewing beers with more flavour without going over the edge and revolting against the flattening of flavours for the masses that has been going on for decades in most countries.

Worldwide this has been going on since the 90's, starting in the USA. Our beers are different because they are flavourful to the extreme yet always well balanced. We can brew according to the Reinheitsgebot and we experiment a lot from grasshoppers in an IPA to combining styles with special ingredients, barrel-aging and re-fermenting with Brett.

How would you describe the “De Molen character” in beer? Name three of your beers that bring out this character best.

I cannot. We brew from light bitters to crazy barrel-aged barley wines. So I must keep the character very general: our beers always have a body and are well balanced and flavourful. The three examples are: Vuur & Vlam (India Pale Ale), Bommen & Granaten (barley wine) and any barrel aged version of Hel & Verdoemenis (Imperial Stout).

© Brouwerij de Molen

You’ve planned to expand your production from 4.500 to 25.000 hectolitres annually. What are your expectations on your brewery’s expansion? Can De Molen fans in Finland expect more availability for your beers after the expansion?

In 2015 we already reached 7.000 hectolitres. But we had to work on every inch of the equipment, process and brewers to reach that amount.

It's hard to tell what effect the expansion will have on Finland. We don't have a marketing plan. We brew what we can and it's sold to those importers who order it. It's a luxury position I know and maybe someday we’ll start making plans for sales. For now I'd advice any Finnish beer lover to ask for it, so more will reach Finland. :-)

There has been some discussion about small breweries and craftbeer “against” big breweries and bulk beer. Recently the discussion has leaned towards “bad beer” vs. “good beer” opposition. How would you define good beer? What makes the difference between bad, good and damn excellent beers? What are the best other breweries’ beers you've tasted recently?

Some people, maybe I could call them purists, talk about small against big and craft - as in hand labour - against automated macro brewing. I'd call that bullshit. Most craft brewers have new and top-notch equipment meaning an automated brew house. Most highly appreciated US craft brewers are huge compared to European craft brewers. Does it make them any worse? Not in my opinion.

Good against bad beer is even trickier. I know dozens or more microbreweries that brew some awful stuff they call beer. For me it has always been revolting against the flattening of flavours.

A long time ago there were many breweries with just as many different beers, styles and flavours. A can assume a lot of them making bad beer as well. Some breweries took control. Probably because they were a little better, they got more money and devoured all those small breweries. Bad for the owners of those small breweries but even worse for the beer drinker. Not at first, when they still got better beer. But as the story continued, marketers and financial departments started running the breweries instead of those creative beer loving brewers. Resulting in uniform beers across the globe because “everybody has to like them” and “it must be as efficiently produced as possible”.

We're taking back control, those beer loving brewers. We want flavour, we want diversity, we want to be surprised now and then.

The best beers I've tasted the last couple of months are from Laugar (Spain), Pöhjala (Estonia), Gänstaller Bräu (Germany), Brew by Numbers (England) and Fyne Ales (Scotland).

© Brouwerij de Molen

Besides the high quality of products, De Molen is known for barrel-aged beer. Beer experimenting - challenging to the ordinary means of brewing – has become more common in recent years. What are in your opinion the pros and the cons of beer experimenting? What would you consider as going over the limit?

There is no con against experimenting. We need to experiment as humans in general in my opinion or we get stuck. The results of an experiment can of course be disappointing. But then you either throw it away, or decide to give a small crowd the opportunity to taste how an experiment like that turns out.

You’ve planned new brewery collaborations with Estonian Pōhjala and American Monk’s Café. Personally I’m very interested about your Pōhjala project which involves Ardbeg barrels: there are many personal favorites around. What effect have your collaborations had to De Molen’s own brewery selection? Can you give examples?

The Pöhjala collaboration is still a plan but will happen for sure! Just last weekend we released another Ardbeg aged beer: Tsarina Esra Ardbeg BA Brett. Crazy beer yet so good!

It's hard to pinpoint what a certain collaboration project does to our own selection. We always learn and take this information back home and use it. But I can't give examples.

The other way around I can give some examples. Fyne Ales has taken our collab called Hills & Mills into production. And there are several breweries – Struise, Haandbryggeriet, Marble – still brewing our Vuur & Vlam according to our recipe.

If a Finnish microbrewery would show interest in collaboration with you or De Molen, what kind of beer would you suggest to them?

I'd love to make a Sahti together with a Finnish brewery someday :-)

But there are so many collaborations we still want to do and some many other things as well. I'm afraid it will have to wait.

© Brouwerij de Molen

Let’s play fortune teller: What will be the big craftbeer trends in 2016 and 2017? How will they affect De Molen’s future plans?

Hahaha. :) I don't like to tell the future and I don't like to react to trends. We do what we want to do and of course can be influenced by anyone we meet or by anything we see. Our main goal for 2016 is to expand the brewery.

In 2017? Maybe sour ales will finally become more wanted in Europe. I know this has already been going on in the US and Scandinavian countries, but the rest is still a little behind.

The Ölmönger blog is about matching good beer with good music. Have you brewed beers for artists or bands? Which artist or band would you like to brew a brand beer if you could choose? What kind and style would it be?

We have brewed a beer (American Pale Ale) for a Dutch artist called Tim Knol. He's a rocky folk-singer. We were asked by John Coffey, a metal band, but had to refuse because lack of capacity. Which was sad.

Personally I would love to brew a beer for Elbow or Guy Garvey himself. I know they are beer lovers and to me they’re one of the best live artists in the world – even though I'm more of a metal-head myself. It should probably be a hoppy yet traditional IPA for them.

That's all for now. Thanks for the interview, John. I wish you and Brouwerij de Molen success in the years to come.

* * *

So, next we'll get back to the usual business with five selected De Molen beers and Ölbeats - one beer and Ölbeat per day starting tomorrow. Since this is a special occasion, there will be a twist in the blogposts. What will it be? Wait for tomorrow and see.

Ölbeat 012: Buxton Bloc Head

Brewery: Buxton Brewery
Country: England
Style: Saison/Farmhouse Ale
Abv: 5,4 %
@RateBeer

A tractor brew for sheep and pig... not!

Buxton Brewery, founded in 2009, lies in the spa town of Buxton in Derbyshire, England. For a fairly young brewery it's already been labelled as a quality brewer in the international level: the brewery entered Ratebeer's annual top 100 brewer list in 2013 and has been there since. I've tasted couple of their brews and decided to find the first Ölbeat for a not-so-ordinary brew.

What about the beer?
Colour is hazy orange with tiny, immediately vanishing white crown. Aroma has strong sour scents of apple and lemon and some faint odour of yeast. Taste begins with dry sourness with lemon and grows somewhat ciderish by the palate. Palate adds yeast and malt. Aftertaste is very dry and lemony.

I can see this beer dividing the beer drinkers to likers and haters: the experience is pretty far from the ordinary beer styles and even the 'normal' saisons. I liked it a lot: in the growing field of IPA's and imperial stouts an unusual and well-done brew tastes incredibly fresh and stands out from the crowd. Not for stereotype-lovers.

Ölbeat

Even though labelled as 'farmhouse pale ale' a pure country song is out of question - in this blog, it's always that way. Finally, it was the theme and origin of the beer, that guided me to this one:

Blur: Country House (YouTube)

From the 1995 album, Great Escape, was written by the band members. The song is not so traditional Blur: of course, the lazy whining vocals of Damon Albarn are present, but the instrumental parts resemble more a circus parade song with trumpet and saxophone than the band's normal disco-pop-rock style. Lyrics tell a story of a man, who gets tired of city life, moves into a big country house and leads an empty and dull life there, not meeting his fantasy. The song was inspired by Blur's ex-manager, who got burnt out in the music business and left it to live in the countryside. Personally, I know that despite liking the peace and quiet of the countryside it would make me feel like the man in Country House. Bloc Head reminded me of this fact.